Porsche 997.1 Carrera S Brake Replacement — Complete DIY Guide (Rotors, Pads & Hardware)
What This Guide Covers
This is a complete brake replacement walkthrough for the 2006 Porsche 911 Carrera 4S (997.1) with standard steel brakes — rotors, pads, wear sensors, and all the hardware. The procedure is largely identical for 2005–2008 997.1 Carrera S, Carrera 4S, Targa 4S, and Cabriolet models running steel brakes.
⚠️ This guide is NOT for PCCB (Porsche Ceramic Composite Brake) cars. If your calipers are yellow, you have PCCB — stop here. Ceramic rotors require specialist handling and specific PCCB pads. PCCB replacement costs are significantly higher and should go to a Porsche specialist.
If your calipers are red, you have the standard steel brake setup this guide covers. Pull the wheel and look — it takes 30 seconds to confirm.
Understanding Your Brake System
The 997.1 Carrera 4S runs a four-wheel disc brake system with fixed four-piston monobloc calipers at all four corners. The calipers are aluminium, painted red at the factory, and are a proper sports car brake — not the sliding single-piston units on most road cars. This means there is no caliper carrier/bracket to remove: the caliper bolts directly to the upright.
Front rotors: 330 mm diameter × 34 mm thick, vented and cross-drilled
Rear rotors: 330 mm diameter × 28 mm thick, vented and cross-drilled
Front calipers: 4-piston fixed monobloc, red
Rear calipers: 4-piston fixed monobloc, red
Parking brake: Drum-in-hat design — a small drum and shoe set sits inside the rear rotor hat, separate from the main disc. Rear caliper pistons are standard push-in type (not wind-in).
Pad wear sensors: Single sensor per axle (front left inboard pad, rear left inboard pad). Triggers a dashboard warning when worn.
Minimum rotor thickness (wear limit): Stamped on the rotor hat. Do not machine below this line — replace instead.
Parts List
Buy everything before you start. Interrupting a brake job because a part is missing is a bad situation.
Front rotors (×2): 330 mm × 34 mm vented, cross-drilled — OEM ref. 99635140904 / 99635141004. Brembo, Zimmermann, and EBC all make quality OEM-spec replacements.
Rear rotors (×2): 330 mm × 28 mm vented, cross-drilled — OEM ref. 99635240502 / 99635240602.
Front brake pads (×1 set): Confirm fitment for 997 Carrera S/4S with the 4-piston caliper. Textar, Pagid, Hawk HPS, and Ferodo DS2500 are all proven choices. Front and rear pads are different — do not mix them up.
Rear brake pads (×1 set): Same caliper family as front, but different pad shape. Confirm separately.
Pad wear sensors (×2): One for front axle, one for rear axle. Replace every time — they are single-use.
Rotor retaining screws (×4 per corner, ×16 total): M6 Pozidrive/cross-head screws that locate the rotor on the hub. Replace all of them — they corrode and strip easily.
Caliper bolts (×2 per caliper, ×8 total): 10 mm Allen/hex-head bolts. Porsche specifies replacement on every removal — these are stretch/torque-to-yield and are not re-usable.
Brake pad retaining pins and spring hardware: The vibration damper spring, retaining pin, and cotter pin should be replaced with every pad change. Often sold as a hardware kit per axle.
Brake lubricant / caliper grease: Never use copper grease. Use ceramic paste (ATE or Liqui-Moly) on pad contact edges only. Do not get any lubricant on pad faces or rotor surfaces.
Thread locker: Medium-strength (blue) for caliper bolts.
Brake cleaner spray: For degreasing rotors before installation.
Fresh brake fluid (DOT 4 LV or DOT 4): Have 1 litre on hand. Porsche specifies DOT 4 — do not substitute DOT 3 or DOT 5.
Tools Required
Floor jack + axle stands (×4): Never work under a car supported only by a floor jack. The 997 has four discrete jack points behind the front wheels and ahead of the rear wheels — use them. The standard scissor jack is for roadside emergencies only.
Torque wrench: You need one that reads accurately in both Nm and ft-lb. A 3/8" drive unit will cover most brake fasteners. A 1/2" drive for the wheel bolts.
10 mm Allen/hex socket: For caliper bolts. A 3/8" drive hex bit socket is ideal.
T30 Torx bit: For rotor retaining screws. Have penetrating oil ready — these screws are almost always seized.
Piston compression tool (C-clamp or dedicated tool): To press the front and rear caliper pistons back into the caliper bore when fitting new pads. A proper brake piston tool set is preferable — the flat-plate type that sits over all four pistons simultaneously.
Rubber mallet: To break loose stuck rotors from the hub. Do not use a steel hammer directly on the rotor.
Wire brush: For cleaning the hub face before fitting new rotors.
Brake bleeder kit or vacuum bleeder: Needed if you opened the system (i.e. disconnected brake lines). Not required for a straightforward pad and rotor swap.
Turkey baster or syringe: To remove some brake fluid from the reservoir before compressing pistons — this prevents overflow.
Brake caliper hanger / hook: Hook or short piece of wire to hang the caliper from the spring so it is not hanging by the brake hose. Never let the caliper dangle from the hose.
Needle nose pliers: For removing cotter pins and sensor connectors.
Large flat screwdriver: To help lever old pads out.
Wheel bolt socket: 17 mm for 997 (metric lug bolts, not lug nuts).
Impact wrench (optional but helpful): For wheel bolts and seized rotor screws. Not for caliper bolts — torque those by hand.
Torque Specifications
Caliper mounting bolts (front & rear): 85 Nm (63 ft-lb) — Replace bolts every time. Apply medium thread locker before installation.
Rotor retaining screws: 8 Nm (6 ft-lb) — Hand-tight is close enough. These locate the rotor only; the wheel clamping force does the real work.
Wheel bolts: 160 Nm (118 ft-lb) — Torque in a star pattern, in two stages.
Brake line bracket bolt (if disturbed): 23 Nm (17 ft-lb)
⚠️ Do not use an impact wrench on caliper bolts. These are precision fasteners with a thread-locker requirement — always torque by hand.
Before You Begin
Let the car cool for at least two hours after any driving. Hot rotors and calipers can warp during removal, and hot brake fluid is a burn hazard.
Work on one corner at a time and complete it before moving to the next. Do not let both calipers on the same axle hang free simultaneously — this could allow a piston to push out of its bore.
Remove a small amount of brake fluid from the reservoir with a syringe before you start. When you press the pistons back in to fit new pads, that fluid has to go somewhere — and it will overflow the reservoir if it is full. Remove approximately 200 ml and dispose of it properly (do not re-use old fluid).
Chock the rear wheels (front) or front wheels (rear) before jacking any corner. Apply the handbrake when working on fronts.
Step 1 — Loosen Wheel Bolts, Raise the Car
With the car on the ground, break loose each wheel bolt with a 17 mm socket (counter-clockwise). Do not fully remove them yet — just crack them loose. The wheel provides resistance; once the wheel is off the ground there is nothing to hold it while you torque.
Jack under the correct factory jack point and transfer the car onto an axle stand. On the 997, the front jack points are reinforced notches in the sill rocker panel, approximately 300 mm rearward of the front wheel centreline. Rear jack points are forward of the rear wheel centreline. These are marked on the underside of the car with arrows or notches. Do not jack under the floor pan.
Give the car a firm push before getting under or near it. If it rocks, re-seat the stands.
Step 2 — Remove the Wheel
Fully remove all five wheel bolts and set the wheel aside flat, stud-side up, out of your working area. You now have clear access to the brake assembly.
📷 Reference photo: After wheel removal you should see the red 4-piston caliper clamping the rotor, with the brake pad sensor wire running along the inner caliper face. Note the single T30 rotor retaining screw on the rotor face.
Step 3 — Disconnect the Pad Wear Sensor
Before touching the caliper, locate the pad wear sensor connector. On the 997 it runs from the inner (inboard) brake pad along the caliper body, clipped to a bracket, and connects to the chassis wiring harness. Squeeze the plastic clip tabs and pull the connector apart. If the old sensor wire is brittle or cracked, avoid bending it sharply — it will already be replaced.
Note where the wiring clips to the caliper body — you will re-route the new sensor the same way.
Step 4 — Remove the Caliper
The 997 caliper bolts in from the back (inboard) side of the upright using two 10 mm hex-head bolts. Use a 10 mm Allen socket on your 3/8" drive ratchet. The bolts are typically torqued tightly and may require a breaker bar extension.
⚠️ Keep track of which bolt came from which location — if re-using (which Porsche does not recommend), they go back where they came from.
With both bolts out, the caliper will slide off the rotor. Do not let it hang by the brake hose. Loop a wire hook or piece of cord through the caliper and hang it from the coil spring or suspension arm above. There is no need to disconnect the brake line for a pad and rotor swap.
📷 Reference photo: Caliper removed and hanging from the spring. Rotor face exposed. Visible: old pads still in caliper, rotor with light surface rust around edges (normal), single retaining screw on rotor face.
Step 5 — Remove the Old Brake Pads
With the caliper hanging, the brake pads will either be captured in the caliper or will slide out freely. On the 997, pads sit in channels in the caliper body and are held laterally by the retaining pin system. Use needle nose pliers to remove the cotter pin and retaining pin, then lift the anti-vibration spring out. The pads will now slide out from the caliper — use a flat screwdriver to lever them free if they are tight on the pistons.
Note the orientation of the old pads — inner and outer pads may look similar but have different shapes or sensor cutouts. Confirm the new pads are correctly identified before installation.
Check the pistons: they should be fully retracted but will now be partially extended from years of use. Do not compress them yet — that comes after the rotor is changed.
Step 6 — Remove the Rotor Retaining Screw and Rotor
The rotor is located on the hub by one or more T30 Torx retaining screws (typically one per rotor on the 997). Spray penetrating oil on the screw and let it soak for five minutes. These screws corrode badly and are among the most commonly stripped fasteners in any Porsche brake job. Use a quality Torx bit with good contact — do not round it out. Apply firm inward pressure while turning.
If the screw rounds out, an impact-driver strike (hit the handle with a hammer while turning) often breaks it loose. Worst case, drill it out — the screw is not structural. Replace with a fresh screw on reassembly.
With the screw out, the rotor should pull straight off the hub. On used cars it will be stuck by corrosion. Do NOT hit the rotor face with a steel hammer — you will damage the surface. Instead, thread two M8 bolts into the rotor's hub removal holes (threaded holes on the rotor face for this purpose) and tighten them alternately to push the rotor off the hub flange. Alternatively, strike firmly around the hat of the rotor (the centre raised section) with a rubber mallet.
📷 Reference photo: Bare hub face after rotor removal showing the hub flange, threaded hub bolt holes, and the wheel speed sensor ring visible at the inboard edge of the hub.
Step 7 — Clean the Hub Face
With the rotor off, wire-brush the hub face thoroughly. Rust and corrosion on the hub flange causes rotor runout (wobble), which leads to brake judder even on brand new rotors. Get it clean and flat. Wipe down with brake cleaner to remove dust and debris.
Do not apply grease to the hub face. A small amount of anti-seize compound on the threads of the rotor retaining screw is acceptable.
Step 8 — Install the New Rotor
Remove the new rotor from its packaging. Most new rotors have an oily anti-corrosion coating on the braking surface. Spray both faces thoroughly with brake cleaner and wipe clean with a lint-free cloth. Do not skip this step — oily rotors cause dramatically reduced initial braking performance.
Slide the new rotor onto the hub. Align the retaining screw hole and thread in the new T30 screw. Torque to 8 Nm (6 ft-lb) — snug, but these are not high-torque fasteners. Temporarily reinstall one or two wheel bolts finger-tight to hold the rotor flat to the hub while you work on the caliper.
📷 Reference photo: New cross-drilled rotor sitting flat against the hub with the retaining screw installed. The rotor should sit flush with no gap around the hub flange contact area.
Step 9 — Compress the Caliper Pistons
Before fitting new pads, the four pistons must be fully pushed back into the caliper body. This creates clearance for the new (thicker) pads around the new rotor.
Remove the rubber dust boots from the pistons (or just work carefully around them — the goal is to not tear them). Place your piston compression tool flat across all four pistons and press evenly. If using a C-clamp, work each piston in sequence, pressing two on one side, then two on the other. The fluid displaced will travel back up the brake line to the reservoir — this is why you removed some fluid earlier. Monitor the reservoir while compressing; if it is about to overflow, remove more fluid with a syringe.
⚠️ The rear pistons on the 997 are standard push-in type — the parking brake is a separate drum-in-hat system and does not use a wind-in piston. You can use a standard flat-plate compressor tool at the rear, same as the front.
📷 Reference photo: Piston compression tool in place across the caliper face with all four pistons being pushed back simultaneously. The smooth piston faces should become flush with the caliper body.
Step 10 — Prepare and Install New Pads
Apply a thin smear of ceramic brake grease to the metal contact edges (the ears and back plate) of the new pads — the places that touch the caliper body channels. Apply sparingly and keep it away from the friction material and the rotor surface. A contaminated pad or rotor means a new pad and rotor.
Clip the new pad wear sensor into the inboard pad of the front-left caliper (front axle sensor) and rear-left caliper (rear axle sensor). Route the sensor wire as the original was routed, clipping it to the caliper body.
Slide the new pads into the caliper channels — inboard pad first, then outboard. Install the anti-vibration spring, retaining pin, and cotter pin. Ensure the retaining pin passes fully through both pads' holes and the spring is seated correctly. Tug the pads lightly — they should be held firmly by the pin but able to slide slightly in and out of their channels.
Step 11 — Reinstall the Caliper
Slide the caliper with new pads over the rotor. Confirm both pads are properly seated as the caliper goes on — it should slide on without excessive force. If it binds, check that the pistons are fully seated.
Apply a thin coat of medium-strength thread locker (blue Loctite) to the threads of the new caliper bolts. Thread them in by hand first, then torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lb) using a 10 mm Allen socket and torque wrench. Do not over-torque — aluminium caliper threads are not forgiving.
Reconnect the pad wear sensor connector until it clicks. Re-route the wire so it cannot foul the rotor or suspension components.
Remove the temporary wheel bolts you used to hold the rotor.
Step 12 — Rear Axle: Parking Brake Adjustment
On the rear, the drum-in-hat parking brake may require attention after rotor replacement. The new rotor hat drum is a fresh surface — the parking brake shoes sit inside it and need to be correctly adjusted for the handbrake to function properly.
After installing the rear rotor and caliper, locate the parking brake adjustment access hole on the rear face of the backing plate (the metal plate behind the hub). Insert a flat screwdriver through the access hole and rotate the star adjuster wheel until you feel the shoe contact the drum (resistance when rotating the rotor by hand). Then back off 3–4 clicks. The rotor should spin freely with minimal drag. Test the handbrake — it should hold firmly before the lever reaches the stop.
If the parking brake shoe assembly is visibly worn or the shoes are thin, replace them at the same time. This is cheap insurance and avoids disassembly later.
Step 13 — Reinstall the Wheel and Repeat
Reinstall the wheel by hand, threading all five bolts finger-tight in a star pattern. Lower the car to the ground so the wheel contacts but the full vehicle weight is not yet on the tyre. Torque wheel bolts to 160 Nm (118 ft-lb) in a star pattern, in two stages — first to ~80 Nm, then to full torque. Do not torque wheel bolts with the car in the air.
Repeat the entire process for each remaining corner. Work one axle at a time — front pair, then rear pair — to maintain brake balance.
Step 14 — Pump the Brake Pedal Before Moving
With all four corners done and wheels torqued, sit in the car and pump the brake pedal firmly 10–15 times before moving the car. When you compressed the pistons, you pushed fluid back — the pedal will feel low and spongy on the first pump. It will build up to a firm, high pedal within a few strokes. Do not drive until the pedal is firm.
⚠️ Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. It will be higher than when you started (you compressed four pistons' worth of fluid back up). Remove any excess to bring it to the MAX line. Do not overfill.
If the pedal remains soft after repeated pumping, you have air in the system and need to bleed the brakes. This should not occur on a straightforward pad and rotor swap where the brake line was not opened.
Bedding In Your New Brakes
New brake pads and rotors must be bedded in before being used hard. Bedding transfers a thin, even layer of pad material onto the rotor surface — this is what gives the brakes their final stopping power. Skipping this step on a Carrera 4S, then braking hard, will cause uneven pad deposits, vibration, and premature wear.
The bedding procedure:
Find a safe, empty stretch of road. The 997 C4S's all-wheel drive and wider rear tyres make it well suited to repeated hard stops.
Stage 1 — Moderate heat cycle: From 80 km/h (50 mph), apply firm-but-not-emergency braking pressure down to 10 km/h. Do not come to a complete stop — keep the car rolling. Allow 30–45 seconds of cooling between stops (drive at low speed without braking to keep airflow over the rotors). Repeat 6–8 times.
Stage 2 — Higher heat cycle: From 120 km/h (75 mph), apply firm braking to 20 km/h. Again, do not stop fully. 8–10 repetitions. Allow the car to cool between each stop.
After the procedure, drive at low speed for 5–10 minutes without using the brakes until the rotors cool. Do not park and leave immediately — if the hot pads sit stationary against the hot rotors, you will get uneven deposits.
The rotors will show a slight blue tint and may smoke lightly — this is normal. The smell is pad resin burning off.
After bedding, the brakes will continue to improve over the first 500 km as the friction material fully seats. Do not make emergency stops in the first 100 km if you can avoid it.
What to Inspect While You’re In There
Braided brake hoses: Check for cracks, swelling, or abrasion at the caliper end. The 997's hoses are rubber-sheathed and can degrade from age and heat. Replace if in any doubt — stainless braided upgrades are cheap and improve pedal feel.
Caliper condition: Look at the pistons for corrosion, torn dust boots, or seepage. Stiff or uneven pistons indicate a caliper service or replacement is needed.
Wheel speed sensor: Visible at the inboard hub face. Check the wiring harness is undamaged.
Wheel bearing: With the wheel off and the car on stands, grab the rotor at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to rock it. Any detectable play indicates wheel bearing wear.
Brake fluid condition: If the fluid looks dark brown or has been in the car for more than 2 years, do a full system flush while you have the reservoir accessible.
Cost Reference
OEM-quality rotors (full set of 4): £300–£500 / $350–$600
Brake pads (full set, OEM-spec compound): £180–£350 / $200–$450
Wear sensors, hardware kit, bolts: £60–£100 / $70–$120
Shop labour cost to do this job: £500–£900 / $600–$1,100 — saving this by doing it yourself is very achievable with patience and the right tools
Reference Resources
For visual reference and further depth, the following guides cover the same platform and are worth reading alongside this article:
Rennlist — Porsche 997: How to Replace Brake Pads, Rotors, and Calipers
Pelican Parts — 996/997 Carrera Brake Disc Replacement (with photos)
The Pelican Parts guides include step-by-step photographs of the actual 997 brake assembly at each stage — highly recommended to read through once before starting your job.
A Note on This Guide
This guide is compiled from factory specifications, community workshop knowledge, and cross-referenced technical sources. Torque specifications reference the Porsche 997 workshop manual. This guide is not a substitute for professional mechanical advice. If you are not comfortable with any step, take the car to a qualified Porsche mechanic. Brakes are safety-critical — if in doubt, do not proceed. Proceed at your own risk.
